Telmo Rodriguez, the flying winemaker is probably the most important figure in modern Spanish winemaking. Focussing on old vines and restoring abandoned or dilapidated vineyards he makes wines from almost every major wine region in the country. His Gabo do Xil Mencia has all the hallmarks of fantastic Valdeorras wines, smoky, meaty yet still fresh showing red fruits as well as varietal blood orange tang. Interesting and delicious.