Boy does Barney do good Chardonnay. The new release is racy, energetic and fine, with intensely concentrated citrus and floral aromas kissed by notes of fennel and rocky minerals. As with the Pinot Noir, there’s a terrific wave of acidity, here dicing the wine’s fleshy, svelte texture with tensile vigour before a stadium finish of citrus-fuelled energy. If this all sounds too to be true for a wine of this price, it isn’t. An absolute belter.